Towards the Rich Indian Artistry is the Festive Fashion of 2024

In a country where its economy lies heavily on the textile industry - being the second largest industry after agriculture - and the values lie profoundly upon the traditions, fashion can hardly be untouched by the great confluence of both. Since time immemorial, master craftspersons have exemplified how stories can also be weaved through ethnic fashion and this year has surely been a revival of the culture owing to various factors -  that have also been dominating the festivities and the fashion in India.  

According to professional fashion forecasters, various metrics determine the trends and the research encompasses market analysis, consumer behaviour studies, and an exploration of fashion influences, both conscious and subconscious. Talking to Local Samosa, one such ethnic fashion forecaster, ICH Next said, "There are factors that include tracking Bollywood and regional celebrities, global trends, influential labels, bloggers, magazines, F&B trends, travel trends, media, and cinema. Along with these, market reports and governmental policies also impact fashion choices".

Before the festive season could even start, India, this year, has seen various such influences, whose impact might have been visible on fashion choices. Be it the grand affair of the Ram Mandir consecration ceremony or the biggest wedding of the year at Ambani's, or the last year's G20 Summit that saw various foreign dignitaries in Indian traditional attires, there has been a cultural emphasis on traditions and heritage fashion. One of the most popular fashion choices was picked up by the B'town actress Alia Bhatt when she opted for an Ashavali saree, a 160-year-old, at a wedding that well displayed the heritage of Gujarat of belonging to the 16th century Ashavali weaving tradition in Ahmedabad and enjoys a prestigious position in the textile history and industry.

Jaipur-based designer Punit Balana, while talking about the trends, says, "Trends this season are pointing us back to our roots, with a renewed focus on Indian textiles." However, he also highlights the trend for fusion. "Whether it is structured waistcoat-style blouses or more delicate, open-back designs, these styles are making a strong statement as they bring a contemporary twist to traditional outfits," he adds. As per the designer, people are opting for such designs to style with wide-leg pants along with shararas, ghagras, sarees and lehengas. "This season’s trends are all about blending the old with the new, creating looks that are both culturally rooted and fashion-forward because people are eager to experiment with bold, contemporary cuts, blending the classic with the modern," he states.

Reiterating the revival of tradition in fashion, Nitin Pamnani, the co-founder of an online marketplace, iTokri, says, "This season sees a renewed appreciation for traditional Indian craftsmanship, as people look to connect with their cultural roots through fashion. Traditional hand block prints such as Sanganeri, Ajrakh, Bagh, Kalamkari, Bagru, and Batik remain popular for their heritage value". Pamnani also says that handpainted designs like Srikalahasti Kalamkari and hand-embroidered detailing like Bengal Kantha and Phulkari embroidery are part of the trends. Along with this, the co-founder also says that handwoven fabrics like Ikat, Mangalgiri, and Dharwad are seasonal flavours. "An increased emphasis on supporting local artisans has also been a major influence, as customers seek to make thoughtful purchases that uplift craftsmanship," he adds.

Detailing the trends this season, Gautam Gupta, the co-owner of the Label Asha Gautam, says, "Clothing styles such as sarees and lehengas are being reimagined with contemporary drapes and lightweight fabrics, with pre-stitched options offering ease without sacrificing grandeur. Sharara sets and anarkalis remain popular for their comfort and elegance, featuring flared silhouettes and intricate detailing. At the same time, cape-style dupattas provide a chic fusion for traditional outfits". Crediting "cultural resurgence that celebrates traditional crafts and heritage textiles, particularly during festivals" as the factor, Gupta says that heavy embroidery techniques like zardozi, french knots, Moti, gota patti, and mirror work dominate, particularly in bridal wear. At the same time, nature-inspired motifs, especially florals, are paired with traditional patterns. "Gold foil prints and metallic accents add shimmer, complemented by a resurgence of block prints and Bandhani in various garments," he adds. 

Gupta highlights that the colour palette this season is vibrant and features bright hues "like sindoori red and turmeric yellow, along with rich jewel tones such as emerald green and ruby red for evening events". He says, "Pastels with metallic touches offer a sophisticated option, while earthy tones like ivory and beige are gaining popularity for daytime wear." The co-owner states that fabrics like Banarasi, paithani, tissue ikat and Kanjivaram silks are being talked about while here’s a growing preference for sustainable handlooms, including Khadi and handwoven fabrics, that reflects increased eco-consciousness among consumers. "The impact of celebrities and social media amplifies these trends, inspiring widespread demand for festive attire. Additionally, the sustainability movement has driven consumers towards eco-friendly fabrics and slow fashion practices. After years of muted celebrations, there is a collective desire for bold, glamorous styles," he adds.

Jeevika Choudhary, Founder and Creative Director of Jeevika Choudhary talks about the younger customers and says, "We are seeing a rise in minimalist designs—sleek silhouettes, soft embellishments, and subtle details that are gaining popularity owing to the shift towards sustainable fashion. Consumers are becoming more conscious of what they wear, choosing eco-friendly materials and this explains the resurgence of handcrafted designs and natural fabrics". However, she also says that traditional embroidery techniques, such as Zardosi, Aari Tari work, Resham, and Gota patti, are paired with contemporary cuts and designs, creating a fusion look that appeals to all generations.

Choudhary also mentions that lightweight silks, organza, and chanderi fabrics are in style while floral motifs are trending for this season. "There is a growing preference for traditional Indian motifs too and the colour palette this season has shifted towards earthy tones and jewel hues. Deep greens, burgundy, mustard, and royal blue are becoming festive staples, while metallic accents—like gold and silver—are being incorporated to add a touch of glamour to the traditional festive attire," she explains. As per the founder, fusion wear—such as kurta sets paired with palazzos or dhoti pants—is in high demand, making festive dressing both stylish and comfortable. "Today’s consumer wants to invest in pieces that can be styled in different ways and worn beyond just one occasion, leading to the rise of separates and mix-and-match styles," she further adds.

Designer Surbhi Pansari from the Luxe Menswear Brand, also mentions that the blending of styles is trendy wherein people prefer short kurtas with denim and sneakers. "Kurtas teamed up with churidar and short kurtas with slim-fit matching trousers with leather shoes are trendy while fabrics like cotton and silk are common with bright colours like Sienna, Guacamole and Macaroon," she adds. 

Citing examples and references while talking to Local Samosa, designers stated how 2024 is all about the merger of traditions and contemporary fashion moved by various seen and unseen forces. Designer Balana also says, "The world is increasingly drawn to the richness and craftsmanship of our fabrics, and it is time we embrace this shift wholeheartedly. Indian textiles have always been an integral part of our heritage, but now more than ever, they are gaining global admiration".