Urvashi Rautela wears Manipuri Potloi: Here's All About the Age-old Traditions!

At a time when the Manipur region is gaining international traction for various socio-political reasons, the Bollywood persona, Urvashi Rautela has got the region's name into the limelight for a beautiful cultural ensemble. And, that happened at the Global Fashion Festival, 2024 when she adorned the traditional dress of Manipuri women, called Manipuri Potloi - a beauty to behold, and a traditional craft to be cherished. 

Designed by Manipuri designer Robert Naorem, it was a dress that embraced 24K real gold in the dress giving a clear peek at the Manipuri traditional fashion. Deep-rooted in the culture of Manipuri, a Potloi is worn by a Meitei Manipuri bride. It is a highly decorated red-coloured cylindrical skirt made of thick fabric and a traditional dark green blouse embellished with jewellery. With such a display, Urvashi Rautela has also become the first fashion showstopper and Bollywood celebrity to wear a Manipuri traditional bridal dress to the international stage.

Wrapped in history, culture, and traditions

What looks like the intricate design, also has a lot of historical references to it. As per documents and the folklore, it was the Meitei king Rajah Bhaigya Chandra or Meidingu Chinthang Khoma (1749-1798) during the later half of the eighteenth century, who introduced the dress.

The king was popular for having composed three forms of Rasa Leela- Kunja Ras, Maha Ras and Basanta Ras. Till date, the round stiff skirt which is cylindrical in shape, is still used in Manipur’s classical dance – Ras-Leela. One can see the portrayal of Radha in a green Potloi, while the Gopis in red.

The fondness for the dress grew over time in Manipur, particularly among Hindu-Meitei brides, who adopted it for their weddings. It is said that crafting such a dress takes several days. However, the interesting part is that the Potloi is also stitched onto the bride just an hour or two before the wedding. Made with thick fiber and bamboo, a Potloi involves extensive decorations and intricate threadwork. Sequins and mirrors are essential elements of the design, and it requires delicate craftsmanship to create the motifs along the skirt's hemline.

The skirt also is complemented with a belt that secures it while a sheer veil is draped around the body. For the top body, women wear a half-sleeved green blouse which is then accessorised with layered necklaces. However, Rautela's look was monochromatic with a rich red blouse and golden embroidery. The similarity to a Manipur bride, although was shown by her look as she also carried Kokgee Leiteng, a tiered headwear, without which the look cannot be completed. 

The Innaphee is a muslin shawl that is draped around the blouse, while the Phanek is traditional bottomwear for Manipuri women. However, the Potloi is so expensive that, according to reports, many Manipuri women rent it for their wedding day.

Potloi-making is an art that has been passed down through generations. In Manipur, it is traditionally taught within families, inside homes, though the state still lacks a formal teaching process for this craft. However, it remains a family tradition, where multiple people gather and work together, turning it into a community-like project.

The designer Robert Naorem, whose work is currently gaining attention, is also celebrated for his contributions to North Eastern fashion. He has collaborated with various Bollywood celebrities as well.