A Walk Through Household Durga Puja Celebrations: The Traditional Bonedi Baris of Kolkata

Durga Puja in Kolkata is not just a festival, it's a deeply woven celebration that unites the city with its rich history, timeless traditions, and spiritual hunger. Among numerous themed pandals, some of Kolkata's oldest Bonedi Baris stand out as proud symbols of Kolkata’s past. For the unversed, Bonedi Bari is a Bengali term for the traditional homes of the upper class, aristocrats, and zamindars of Kolkata. These Baris have witnessed history unfold over centuries, passing down rituals and customs from one generation to the next. During Durga Puja, these homes host family pujas that are a reminder of Bengal's past and are a part of Kolkata's Pujo culture. Let's go on a journey with the residents to see the city's most iconic and oldest Baris, which creates an aura of old-world charm.

Shobhabazar Rajbari Durga Puja (Since 1757)

The Shobhabazar Rajbari Durga Puja was originally initiated to mark the British victory in the Battle of Plassey. Venkatesh by Maharaja Naba Krishna Deb in 1757. Naba Krishna Deb adopted his elder brother, Ramsundar's son, Gopimohan Deb, and his own son, Raja Raj. Their descendants have been conducting this puja for over 250 years. The youngest generation of the Deb family, Venkatesh shared, "My favourite part is seeing all the family members, from the youngest to the oldest, dressed in saree and dhoti Punjabi on Ashtami."

The family once had the unique ritual of releasing a Neelkanth bird (Indian roller) during the Visarjan, symbolising good fortune after Ram's victory over Ravana in mythology. However, due to government restrictions, this practice has sadly been discontinued. Today, it remains one of Kolkata’s grandest and most revered Durga Pujas. The majestic Rajbari itself, with its sprawling courtyards and traditional “Thakur Dalan,” adds to the regal ambience of the Puja.  While the rituals have been preserved, the celebration here still evokes the old-world aristocratic charm, making it a must-visit for any Durga Puja enthusiast.

Rani Rashmoni’s Janbazar Durga Puja (Since the 19th Century)

At Rani Rashmoni House’s Janbazar Durga Puja, the history runs deep. Rani Rashmoni was a social activist, businesswoman, and zamindar in 19th century Bengal. She is best known for founding the Dakshineswar Kali Temple in Kolkata and for her fight against the British East India Company. Saikat Chowdhury, from the 7th generation of the family, explained, "This Puja, started by Jadunath Chowdhury, Rani Rashmoni's grandson, daughter Kumari Chowdhury and son Parimohan Chowdhury, is still performed with all the original rituals intact." where the family continues to uphold her legacy. Saikat adds, "During these Puja days, all family members gather from various parts of the world, and the traditional rituals, including the age-old Visarjan, is performed without using modern vehicles carried by the humans on a bamboo structure, just like in the olden days."

Jorasanko Shib Krishna Daw Bari (Since 1840)

Jorasanko Shib Krishna Daw Bari is one of the oldest and most iconic Bonedi Baris of Kolkata as this is the house of gun makers. The puja was started in 1840 by Shibkrishna Daw's father, but his son, a wealthy merchant took the legacy forward with grand celebrations. "As Jorasanko was a gun maker during the British era, till today, this is the only house where firing is allowed during Durga Puja," says Suprotim Nandi, a photographer from Kolkata. The gun salute is given to the Durga idol when she leaves for Visarjan.

Badan Chandra Roy Bari (Since 166 Years Ago)

This 166-year-old Durga puja was started by Late Badan Chandra Roy in his palatial three-storied house at Colootola opposite to Medical College Hospital. Badan Chandra earned the title of "Roy" for his philanthropy and for helping many impoverished families and so this Bari was named Badan Chandra Roy Bari," says Suprotim. This is one of the elite houses of Kolkata as the structure of this house is in the shades of red which date back to the pre-British era and the black and white chequered Thakurdalan (courtyard where puja is performed) is quite large here too," adds Nandi. 

Mallick Bari Durga Puja (Since the 15th Century)

The Mallick family of Bhowanipore has been worshipping Durga in the Ekchala form since the 15th century, under the reign of Nawab Hussein Shah. Following Vaishnav traditions, they observe strict vegetarianism during the five days of Puja. At one of these oldest Durga Pujas in Kolkata, rituals are performed at two locations 'Durga Dalan' and 'Annapurna Dalan,' such as Sindur Khela and Ashtadurba on Vijaya Dashmi offering a glimpse into the heart of Kolkata's Durga Puja heritage.

Sabarna Roy Choudhury’s Durga Puja at Barisha (Since 1610)

The Durga Puja at the Barisha residence of the Sabarna Roy Choudhury family has been celebrated since 1610. It is said that Zamindar Sri Lakshmi Kant Majumdar initiated the worship of the Atchala Durga idol here. The unique idol, with a green-skinned Mahisasur and the intricate “Chaalchitras” depicting the Dasamahabidya (ten forms of Goddess Shakti), adds a distinctive touch to this historic Puja. This Puja has withstood the test of time, maintaining its traditional rituals over centuries.

Bhowanipore, De Bari Durga Puja (Since 1870)

The De Bari Durga Puja in Bhowanipore started in 1870, stands as a powerful symbol of Kolkata’s history and rebellion against British rule. In a striking display, Mahisasur is depicted wearing a British soldier's uniform—coat, pants, and shoes—making the Puja not just a spiritual celebration but a subtle protest during the Indian freedom movement. Blending tradition with defiance, this Puja has become a cultural landmark, representing both devotion and historical resistance.

Baghbazar Haldarbari Durga Puja (Since 447 Years Ago)

History whispers through the walls of the Baghbazar Haldarbari, where Durga Puja has been celebrated continuously for over 447 years. The striking Kasthipathar (touchstone) Durga idol is said to be around 600 to 700 years old, sculpted during the Pal era of Bengal. Kumari Puja, a prominent ritual where a young girl is worshipped as a manifestation of the goddess, draws a significant crowd every year. 

Bhukailash Rajbari Durga Puja (Since 300 Years Ago)

Located in Khidirpur, Bhukailash Rajbari’s Durga Puja initiated by Maharaja Joy Narayan Ghosal nearly 300 years ago, the Puja stands out for its Astadhatu (eight-metal) Mahisasurmardini idol. The goddess, seated on a traditional horse-shaped lion, is a sight to behold. Visitors can also explore the Rajbari’s twin Shiva temples, which house towering Shiva lingams built in 1781, an enchanting blend of tradition and devotion.

These traditional pandals, with their deep-rooted history and unwavering commitment to age-old rituals, offer more than just a celebration—they provide a window into Kolkata’s soul. Visiting these Puja pandals is like stepping into a time capsule, where each family, each deity, and each ritual tells a story that spans centuries.