Kumortuli Kolkata: Discover the Hidden World of Durga Idol Making

Mahalaya marks the beginning of the much-awaited Durga Puja festival, the city of joy's streets throng with excitement as the festival approaches, but it is in Kumortuli, a small potters' quarter in North Kolkata, where the true magic happens and Durga idols come to life. Here, nestled within narrow lanes, artisans work tirelessly, breathing life into the goddess Durga, shaping her out of mere clay. The roots of this historic potters’ quarter stretch back 300 years when potters from Krishnanagar, in Nadia district, migrated to Kolkata. Initially hired by Raja Nabakrisna Deb to create Durga idols for his personal puja, this humble craft blossomed into a tradition deeply embedded in Kolkata’s culture.

Chokkhu Daan: Bringing the Goddess to Life

Mahalaya is celebrated with the recitation of "Mahishasura Mardini", a powerful hymn describing the goddess's victory over the demon Mahishasura.

According to Hindu mythology, on the day of Mahalaya, the gods combined their powers to create Durga, the embodiment of Shakti (power), to defeat the demon Mahishasura. It is also believed that this is the day when the goddess begins her journey from her heavenly abode in Mount Kailash to Earth, to be with her children.

In Kumortuli, this day holds special significance as the artisans perform the sacred ritual of 'Chokkhu Daan' – painting the eyes of the Durga idol. This act is deeply symbolic, representing the moment the goddess comes alive. Kumortuli artisans, known for their intricate craftsmanship, take pride in being the ones to create the divine form of Durga for people worldwide.

The Legacy of Artisans Making Idols

The artisans of this area have been shaping clay into divine idols for centuries, and today, this small community is world-famous for its unmatched artistry. In Kolkata, the icon artisans mostly dwell in poor living conditions. Yet, names like Mohan Banshi Rudra Pal and his sons Sanatan Rudra Pal and Pradip Rudra Pal, along with Kartik Pal, Prasanta Pal, and Rakhal Pal, are still revered for their mastery of the traditional style despite the threats from the ‘theme artists’, they are booked by major puja organisers who admire the old school.

Women are not lagging behind in this male-dominated craft. Over 30 women artisans, like Mala Pal, Soma Pal, Kanchi Pal, and Chapa Rani Pal, have long been a part of this sacred tradition.

How Durga Idols are Made: A Divine Process

In these workshops, the basic structure of the idol is created using bamboo and straw, which form the skeleton of the goddess. The wet clay, known locally as path mati, is the fundamental material used to coat the idol’s structure. Artisans skillfully layer this clay over the bamboo frame, meticulously shaping and smoothing it. In another corner of the workshop, artisans use bele mati, a finer-grained clay, mixed with etel mati (sticky clay) and Ganga mati (clay sourced from the sacred Ganges), to cover any cracks or imperfections. Finally, once the clay dries, the idol is painted and adorned with vibrant colours, jewelry, and traditional attire.

The entire process of making a Durga idol is like a living, breathing art form where every stroke and every layer of clay plays a role in shaping the divine. Kumortuli photography has become a popular trend, with photographers capturing the soulful expressions of the idols and the artistic process in all its stages.

Artisans of Kolkata’s Kumartuli: Gear-up for Overseas

Kumortuli's influence isn't limited to Kolkata. Over the past few decades, the artisans have seen their work extend far beyond the city’s boundaries. The growing Bengali diaspora, especially Probashi Bengalis living abroad, has fueled an international demand for these idols. From the U.S. to the U.K., Australia to Europe, NRIs have embraced Durga Puja with pride, and Kumortuli’s artisans have become a vital part of these celebrations.

In 1989, Kumortuli sent lightweight Durga idols made of shola pith to several countries, marking the beginning of its international export market. Today, the demand for Kumortuli idols has grown exponentially, In 2006, Kumortuli supplied 12,300 clay deities of the goddess Durga. This potter's town supplies images to about 90 countries worldwide with new nations joining the list every year. A spokesman of Kumartuli Shilpi Sangha (KSS), an association of the craftsmen, said the NRIs of countries like Hungary, Bulgaria, Russia, Austria, and Poland, come to Kumortuli to buy images.

To cater to this demand, Kumortuli artisans have started crafting idols from fiberglass, which is lighter and more durable. Fiberglass Durga idols are now being shipped to various countries, including the U.S., U.K., Canada, and Australia. The artisans' ability to adapt to the needs of the international market has helped Kumortuli’s reputation soar to new heights.

Visiting Kumortuli: A Journey into Art and Devotion

If you’ve ever wondered, "When can I visit Kumortuli in Kolkata?", the months leading up to Durga Puja—between June and October—are the perfect time. It’s during this period that the neighborhood is buzzing with activity as artisans work tirelessly to meet both local and international demands. After a short walk from Sovabazar Metro Station, you can enter the maze of Kumortuli’s lanes and witness the creation of divine art firsthand.

For those interested in Kumortuli photography, capturing the idol-making process is a mesmerising experience. With a photography permit available for just Rs. 50, visitors can document the entire season, from the first steps of idol-making to the final touches. The Shilpi Samiti, the artist council, issues these permits, granting access to the workshops where the magic happens.

Kumortuli Faces Challenges: The Threat to Tradition 

Senior artisans, revered for their years of experience, are entrusted with crafting the most crucial parts of each idol. However, with many of the youth in Kumortuli lacking interest in this traditional art form, there are concerns about the loss of this deep-rooted and rare cultural heritage of Kolkata. The old style of idol-making may be at risk as modern ‘theme-based’ pujas gain popularity.

Mala Pal is renowned for her unique miniature foldable Durga idols, which are popular both in India and abroad, including in Australia, Canada, and Europe. Her work has garnered widespread recognition, though she has also highlighted the lack of adequate government support for her studio. Her dedication to the craft extends beyond idol-making—she also runs a school to teach young students, ensuring that the legacy of Kumortuli continues through future generations.

Despite the changes and challenges, Kumortuli's artisans remain the heart of Durga Puja, their hands shaping not just clay but an entire community's devotion. With each passing year, their work travels farther, yet it remains rooted in the traditions that have been passed down for centuries.