A Journey of Threads Changing Every Mile: State-wise Handlooms of India!

In India, with every mile you walk, you see a metre-long weave that represents the state's handloom legacy. Whether it is the intricate work of Kalamkari from Andhra or the unique tie-dye Bandhani of Gujarat, these threads have been preserved and promote the age-old tradition of using handlooms in making one of the finest fabrics in the world. Let's explore the state-wise handlooms of India that are a work of art. 

Andhra Pradesh - Kalamkari 

Kalamkari is a unique art form of Andhra Pradesh that is hand-printed on cotton textiles. It refers to the ancient style of hand painting that is done with a tamarind pen, using natural dyes. The literal meaning of Kalamkari is ‘kalam,’ which means pen and ‘kari’ which refers to craftsmanship; derived from a Persian word.

Arunachal Pradesh - Apatani 

Apatani is an indigenous weaving technique of the tribal people of Arunachal Pradesh. These clothes have geometric, zigzag, and angular designs and patterns that represent the strict and disciplined life of tribal people in the state. 

Assam - Muga Silk

Derived from Assam’s silkworms, Muga Silk is celebrated for its golden hue and lustrous texture, representing the royalty and opulence of the northeastern state. Cultivated mostly in the Garo hills of Assam, the Muga silk is extracted from the cocoons of Antheraea Assamensis. White Paat and warm Eri Silk are the other two silks produced in the state.

Bihar - Bhagalpuri Silk 

Bhagalpuri silk comes from Bhagalpur - the "silk city" of India. Bhagalpuri silk is made from cocoons of Antheraea Paphia silkworms also known as Vanya. This silk is renowned for its soft texture and natural sheen, making it a cherished choice for sarees and dress materials.

Chhattisgarh - Kosa Silk  

Kosa silk is one of the finest silk from Chhattisgarh. The word ‘kosa’ is Sanskrit for silk. It is made from the Antheraea Mylitta silkworm. It exhibits a rustic charm with its coarse texture and subtle shimmer, symbolizing the essence of rural life.

Goa - Kunbi 

Kunbi, a handloom from Goa, is made by one of the oldest tribes - Kunbi of the state. The name is formed by two words ‘kun’ and ‘bi’ which mean family and seeds, believing this art form to be passed on from generation. This textile produces a dyed saree with chequered patterns on it.  

Gujarat - Bandhani 

Bandhani or Bandhej is a renowned textile from Gujarat. This is a tie-dye textile decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design. The term bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘bandh’ which means “to bind” or “to tie.”

Haryana - Panja Durries

Haryana’s Panja Durries are exquisite handwoven carpets, reflecting the artistic prowess and cultural significance of the state. This textile originated from Haryana and is made from thick threads and features beautiful and usually complicated patterns.

Himachal Pradesh - Kullu Shawls 

Kullu Shawls come from the Kullu District in Himachal Pradesh. It's a twill-weave shawl, characterised by patterned borders made from varieties of coarse local wool from sheep reared in the region, or fine wool such as pashmina, angora and merino.

Jammu and Kashmir -  Pashmina 

Whenever one thinks of Kashmir, the Pashmina Shawl or Shahmina is one of the crafts of the place that crosses their mind. This premium, soft and warm shawl is considered one of the finest craftsmanship. Deriving its name from the fleece of the Changthangi goat which is known as 'Pashm' which is an Urdu word and has its origins in Farsi.

Jharkhand - Kuchai Silk 

Indigenous to the state of Jharkhand, Kuchai Silk is an organic variation of wild silk popularly known as 'Tussar'. The cocoon for this silk is found on Sal and Arjun trees. This silk portrays the rich tribal heritage of the region, featuring geometric patterns and tribal motifs.

Karnataka - Mysore Silk 

Mysore silk sarees originated from the city of Mysore in the state of Karnataka. These sarees are frequently woven with gold zari and are composed of pure crepe silk. The world over, Mysore silk sarees are recognised for their vivid colours and lightweight and velvety texture.

Kerala - Kasavu 

Kerala’s Kasavu sarees are known for their distinctive white with golden borders, symbolising purity and grace, and are a staple in the state’s traditional attire. These sarees are woven from pure cotton and get their name from the golden border they have. 

Maharashtra - Paithani

Paithani is a variety of sarees, named after the Paithan region in Maharashtra where they are woven by hand. Made from very fine mulberry silk, it is considered one of the richest sarees in Maharashtra which is adorned with peacock motifs and colourful borders.

Madhya Pradesh - Chanderi 

Chanderi fabric from Madhya Pradesh is another fabric that represents the Indian handloom. Chanderi weaving consists of pure and degummed mulberry silk and is known for its sheer texture and delicate designs, making it a preferred choice for sophisticated ensembles.

Manipur - Moirangphee

Moirangphee is a textile fabric that has a specific design called the "Moirangpheejin" which is woven sequentially on both longitudinal edges of the fabric and oriented towards the centre of the cloth, with cotton or silk threads. This fabric was originally a product of Moirang village of Manipur.

Meghalaya - Eri Silk 

Meghalaya’s Eri silk, also known as Ahimsa silk is one of the most famous silks from the Northeastern state. It is a protein fibre derived from cocoons made by the Samia Cynthia Ricini moth or Philosamia Ricini moth. It is 100% natural and an all-weather silk. 

Mizoram - Puanchei 

Mizo Puanchei is the traditional cloth of the Mizo people. It is a compactly woven and heavy textile that is woven on a traditional loin loom. The design of the ground fabric is taken from Puanlaisen, a Puan in which a prominent deep red stripe runs horizontally in the middle along the length of the Puan. 

Nagaland - Naga Shwal

The Naga shawl is the most important part of the dress of many Naga communities and is woven with cotton and staple fibre, though some wool is used. These shawls showcase the vibrant tribal culture of Nagaland with their intricately woven patterns with unique motifs and colours.

Odisha - Sambalpuri Ikat

Sambalpuri Ikat is among the most well-known handlooms produced in Odisha. In order to achieve the complex patterns and vivid colours of this distinctive style, the yarns are tie-dyed before weaving.

Punjab - Phulkari 

Phulkari, which is made of two words ‘phul’ meaning flower and ‘kari’ which means work is a type of embroidered clothing. It is the art of creating beautiful intricate designs and motifs on fabrics using different colored threads.

Rajasthan - Kota Doria

Kota Doria fabric is a combination of cotton and silk woven in a square check pattern. The silk in it gives shine to the fabric whereas cotton gives strength. This transparent weave, with its iconic square checks (khat) pattern, is traditionally done on a pit loom by women in their homes in the villages of Kaithoon, Siswali and Mangroal. 

Sikkim - Lepcha 

Lepcha is a traditional attire of Sikkim. Generally, it is a thick cotton fabric woven on a loin loom. These weaves are characterised by their simplicity and ethereal beauty, with geometric patterns on them.

Tamil Nadu - Kanjivaram 

Kanjivaram sarees are a traditional form of silk saree from Tamil Nadu. The term "Kanjivaram" itself actually refers to the town of Kanchipuram, where the saree originates. Usually made from a heavier type of silk known as Kanchipuram silk, they are known for their bright colours and elaborate designs, which often incorporate gold and silver thread.

Telangana - Pochampally Ikat 

Pochampally Ikat comes from the Pochampally village of Telangana. Making of Pochampally Ikat involves a tie-and-dye method where the yarns are dyed in elegant design patterns and then woven into the cloth. They have traditional geometric patterns in the "Paagadu Bandhu" (Ikat) style of dyeing. 

Tripura - Risa 

Risa is the famous traditional attire of Tripura. It is a handwoven cloth used to wrap around the upper body. It is woven in colourful designs and has a crucial social and religious significance.

Uttar Pradesh - Chikankari 

Uttar Pradesh’s Chikankari is renowned for its delicate and intricate white-on-white embroidery. This traditional handcrafted needlework hand embroidery derives its name from the Persian word ‘Chikin’ or ‘Chikeen‘ which means a kind of embroidered fabric and is made with cotton, Chanderi, muslin, georgette, viscose, silk, organza or net fabric. 

Uttarakhand - Panchachuli Weave 

Coming from the Panchachuli mountain range is a growing cooperative of rural women weavers called the Panchachuli who produce this traditional weave. Along with pashmina and silk, the ladies of Panchachuli weave wool from sheep and merino goats. All of the wool is woven and knitted by hand, and the dyes used are all natural.

West Bengal - Jamdani

Jamdani is a handloom woven fabric made of cotton. West Bengal’s Jamdani sarees are famous for their soft texture and are a symbol of artistic finesse, featuring delicate and ornate patterns woven on fine muslin fabric.