Citizens Speak: On Sunken Scenes from the Biggest Festival in Kolkata

It is the 'Lajja' theme Durga Puja pandal in Kolkata, a dedication to the R G Kar Hospital rape and murder victim. The pandal has the idol of goddess Durga, who can be seen covering her face with palms to showcase that Durga is ashamed of the inhuman level at which humans are stepped down. Right beside the goddess also lies the apron, which is donned by doctors around the world. Such is a glimpse of how Durga Puja, the biggest festival of West Bengal is being celebrated this year, while it remains a low-key affair at famous Kumortuli - where these idols are created. 

The Kolkata horror took the entire country to the foot, not just during the day but also at night. As doctors all over the country took to the streets and the Kolkata doctors announced protests demanding justice for the victim, the century-old Kumortuli could also not be untouched by what was happening outside their secluded lanes. As we visited the heritage potter's colony, ahead of the festivities this year, it seemed slow and less crowded, compared to the previous years. What was evident was the majority of the artisans wearing a white-coloured t-shirt stating: "Kumortuli Diche Dak Amar Durga Bichar Pak" (Kumortuli is saying, hope my daughter gets justice soon)  as a mark of protest against the case. 

Along with the t-shirts, Kumortuli also took an active part in the protest a few days before our visit where the artisans took to the streets. The potter community used the above slogan with a belief that it is a direct attack on the Durga if the women can be treated like this on the land where goddesses like Durga and Kali are worshipped. As we strolled down the street, the posters with the same slogan were visible in the workshops of the potters while they kept busy with their work. 

Sustaining for more than 300 years, this traditional potters' quarter in North Kolkata, houses more than 5,000 artisans and their families and reportedly is said to earn enough to sustain them throughout the year. However, the artisans fear the loss this year. Sumit Pal, a 60-year-old artisan says, "If people do not celebrate the festival, it would have a huge impact on our business. Many artisans would struggle to pay their employees and would not be able to afford the raw materials that they have already sourced, leading to significant losses."

Pal, who has been a master of hand painting for the last 40 years, here in Kumortuli, admits that there is a "sense of insecurity and fear, especially among parents about their kids" but believes that the Kumortuli community will bear the cost of less participation of people in Durga Puja. While he acknowledges the tragedies are devastating even for the community, he also says, "We must think of those who are living, like us, as our families and the community is dependent on pottery-based businesses. One of the best times to earn for us is during Durga Puja." He further says that the lack of participation is just an addition to the already existing problem of the younger generation not taking up the pottery businesses or other career options. 

Meanwhile, many idols have already been created and dispatched for delivery to both national and international destinations from Kumortuli and a few artisans remained busy preparing for the other deliveries, as we spoke to them. "Even though we are affected by teh case and are noticing the change this year, we have orders from various other countries and hence, we are committed to work for that, no matter what," says Gobinda Pal, showing his t-shirt, who had fought against the community back in 1985 to let his sister, Mala Pal become the first female sculptor here, which is predominantly male-dominated.

As many other artists hesitated to talk about the low business this year, they raised concerns over the safety of women. Some of them, while maintaining confidentiality, stated: "We are not living in an independent country", and that they cannot imagine what happens to women in other places that are considered "unsafe" when such a case could take place in one of the safest cities for women.

A grim picture, as the data hints

Call it the aftermath of the incident that, reportedly, many Durga Puja committees across Bengal have declined the state grant of Rs 85,000 this year that is offered to the community clubs. As per reports, members of Shakti Sangh and Apanader Durga Puja, the committees that are located in Uttarpara of North Kolkata returned the state grant this year. On the other hand, it cannot be undermined that the creative industries surrounding Durga Puja in West Bengal are worth Rs. 32,377 crore (GBP 3.29 billion, USD 4.53 billion), as per the estimation in a 2019 report by the British Council of India.

It was highlighted in the same report that the figure is equivalent to the economies of several small nations around the globe and that within just one week, the Puja contributes 2.58% of Bengal's GDP. In comparison, popular global festivals like the Rio Carnival, Hanami, Oktoberfest, San Fermín, and Mardi Gras contribute between 1.35% and 2.25% to their respective economies.

Even a few days into the Pujo, the scenes remain subdued in some of the most popular markets, where residents usually flock to shop for the celebrations. Places like Gariahat in South Kolkata, Hatibagan in the North, and New Market are seeing comparatively fewer crowds this year. According to a report released as early as September, traders in just one market in Burrabazar reported losses of Rs. 7.5 crore in just four weeks, due to the tense situation in the city. With calls to boycott this year's Pujo celebrations, traders, both small and large, have begun to notice the impact on their business. Business is also reportedly slow on Park Street, Kolkata's gastro hub.

As we strolled through the markets, it became evident that, unlike previous years, people are still working on the pandals and decorations until the last minute—tasks usually completed well in advance of the festival dates. A 55-year-old food hawker, Bhateswar Saha, who typically roams the entire city for business, mentions that not only is street food sales down, but street shopping has also declined this year. "These streets would usually be full, but this year, there are fewer people on the road," he laments. Other traders at Kalighat also expressed surprise at the reduced crowds during this time.

Speaking to Local Samosa, Sangita Mondal, a resident of Howrah who has been part of the protests, shares that celebrations are subdued this year. "There’s a noticeable difference in the celebrations because many are still protesting on the streets," she says. Mondal, along with her club members, has also created a pandal that showcases the RG Kar protest through the Durga idol. "This year, the artisans have come together to design and construct pandals that not only showcase their exceptional skills but also convey a message of protest regarding the struggles at R.G. Kar Medical College and Hospital," she adds, noting that the pandal her team created is their way of protesting.

Sristi Pradhan, a resident of Beleghata who has been advocating for justice online through her social media presence, describes the celebrations as "slow." "I don’t feel that happiness in the air. The 'Pujo Gondho,' as we call it in Bengali, is missing," Pradhan says, adding that there’s a sense of numbness in how she feels about the festivities. "Almost every conversation revolves around what has happened, and we’re constantly watching the news channels, waiting for justice—some light on the matter," she further explains.

On the other hand, some people are choosing not to return to Kolkata for the Puja. Priyanka Bain, who lives in Delhi, has decided not to visit her hometown in Dumdum this year, stating, "I’m skipping because of the horrible situation there." She adds, "Justice has not been served yet, and many like me are not in the mood for celebrations."

Only last year, the Chief Minister of West Bengal, Mamata Banerjee, had stated that the celebrations generated over Rs 80,000 crore in business while providing employment opportunities for nearly 300,000 people. However, various economists have repeatedly cautioned about the state's heavy dependence on this one festival— a warning that seems particularly relevant this year.